Summer in Scilla: Swordfish, Sunlight, and the Secret in the Sauce
The small fishing village of Scilla sits at the southernmost tip of Italy’s boot, a picture-perfect place that has remained largely unchanged for decades - perhaps even centuries. Steeped in history and myth (the town takes its name from the ancient rock in Homer’s Odyssey) Scilla is off the tourist track, making it a jewel waiting to be discovered. I was just 19 when I landed there for the first time, charmed by its sleepy beach at the base of the old town and the magnificent rock that rises at the water’s edge.
On that visit, I would watch the fishermen haul their daily catch from brightly painted boats, onto the pebbled beach where they would set up makeshift tables, bantering in a dialect I could barely understand. Black-clad women waited patiently to the side and then approached the glistening swordfish laid out in rows, motioning with their hands. A nod of agreement and the fishmonger would raise his massive cleaver, severing the head from the belly of the fish. Pieces tossed onto the scales, quickly removed, and deftly wrapped in brown paper. Though the particulars have changed (goodbye Lira, hello Google Maps!) in this landscape of sea and stone and searing sun, the ritual has not.
Swordfish is the signature seafood in the Straits of Messina, and these women will prepare it for the mid-day or evening meal in myriad ways - all surprisingly simple and utterly delicious. Grilling the steaks with just a handful of fresh ingredients is the most common preparation: quickly seared fish is dressed with a sauce made from the juice of local lemons, extra-virgin olive oil, and brushed with dried oregano that abounds in the surrounding hillsides. Swordfish pasta, prepared with mint, capers and grape tomatoes has a number of popular iterations, including one from the Aeolian Islands that adds olives to the mix. My predictable favorite showcases Sicilian fried eggplant, creating a dish synonymous with the best of summer. Key to any version of Pasta con Pesce Spada is the abundant use of a fruity extra-virgin olive oil, like Luretík Sicily or Meridione, as it is the oil that anchors the sauce, allowing distinct flavors of swordfish, mint, capers, and sweet tomatoes to shine.
It was in places like Scilla and across the Straits in Sicily, that I began to understand that olive oil was the thread connecting tradition, culinary preparations, and health, the underpinnings of the Mediterranean diet. For centuries, olive oil has been praised not only for its taste but also for its remarkable benefits: rich in monounsaturated fats, packed with antioxidants, and central to the Mediterranean diet. Much of its flavor comes from polyphenols — tiny plant compounds that give fresh extra virgin olive oil its grassy aroma, gentle bitterness, and peppery finish at the back of your throat. These aren’t just pleasant sensations; they’re proof that the oil is fresh, alive, and brimming with antioxidants.
So for all the attention paid to its role in heart health or longevity, we sometimes forget the simplest reason it’s been used for centuries: it tastes good.
Polyphenols are the olive tree’s natural defense against insects, disease, and environmental stress. Though they make up only about 2% of the compounds in olive oil, they punch well above their weight. They help protect the oil itself from oxidation and rancidity — and when we consume them, they protect our cells in much the same way.
In fact, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) recognizes this benefit: extra virgin olive oil may carry a health claim if it contains at least 5 mg of hydroxytyrosol and related polyphenols per 20g of oil, which helps protect blood lipids from oxidative stress. But beyond the gustatory advantage and legitimate health claims, there’s another benefit to seeking out fresh, well-made olive oils that have higher polyphenol levels: they perform better in the kitchen. Higher-polyphenol oils are more stable under heat, resisting oxidation during cooking and sautéing and frying far better than refined oils or low-polyphenol alternatives. That means better flavor, longer shelf life, and a healthier finished dish.
So yes, olive oil is good for you — but unlike any medicine, it adds richness, enjoyment, and pleasure to an essential human activity: eating. And when it comes to things to eat, it's not often that what's good on the table is good on the nutrition label. That's what makes good olive oil something quite special and rare.
Pasta con pesce spada
Pasta with swordfish is a quintessential Sicilian summer dish — quick to make, endlessly adaptable, and more about instinct than precise measurements. The sauce comes together in the time it takes to boil pasta, using a simple mix of swordfish, herbs, and optional add-ins like olives, capers, or toasted pine nuts. While any pasta shape works, stubby varieties like busiati, fusilli, or penne pair especially well, and the recipe can be made in rosso (with tomato), in bianco (without), or somewhere in between with a handful of fresh cherry tomatoes. Even a small amount of swordfish imparts its distinct flavor, making this a surprisingly economical way to enjoy it, and variations — such as adding fried eggplant — keep the dish fresh and versatile.
Ingredients
Serves 4-6 people
500g (1 lb) pasta of your choice
250g-500g (1/2-1 lb) swordfish de boned and skinned and cut into small cubes
1 or 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and slightly crushed
250g (1/2 lb) cherry or grape tomatoes, cut in half
A handful of black olives (optional)
A spoonful or two of capers
A handful of fresh mint, chopped
A sprig of fresh oregano, stem removed (or a pinch of dried)
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Optional:
A pinch of hot red pepper flakes