Siena, Then and Now: Life in 1973 to Tuscan Tables Today
Siena, 1973: Fifty years ago, Siena was far from the city one visits today. Of course, the architectural wonders like the soaring Mangia Torre, shell shaped Piazza del Campo and the magnificent marble striped cathedral still inspire awe. But life itself, especially for students, was infinitely different back then. For starters, Siena was far quieter with a much more provincial feel than its bigger and more popular neighbor, Florence. Small shops dominated the Medieval city center’s labyrinth of streets where daily life unfolded for the average Sienese – fruit vendor stalls, butcher shops, bakeries, and more. While the city had an elegant feel, not all residences had essential amenities like phones. Calls were generally made from public booths (cabine telefoniche) found around town or in the local bars. Functionality was a frequent issue, as the phones often rejected the requisite token, or gettone that one had to buy. (International calls were extremely expensive and could only be made from the Post Office with long waits to connect to an operator.) With no ATMs, exchange students relied on American Express Travelers Checks, and when money ran out, getting more was only possible via wire transfers at the American Express Office that arrived after a few days-time. Letters were the primary means of communication to the US, written on featherweight, affordable pre-paid aerograms.
Winter was particularly challenging. Older buildings had limited hot water and heating was expensive, tightly controlled because of the 1973 global energy crises. Showers were less frequent and often icy cold. Indoors, we bundled up in sweaters during the day and slept under piles of blankets at night.
And yet. . . life was good. The lira to dollar ratio was 500L to $1, meaning that even for students on a tight budget, a morning cappuccino (unheard of in 1970 outside of “Little Italy” in San Francisco and New York), was affordable - less than $1.00. Dinner in a modest trattoria around $5.00. I was cold that winter, but in love with the life I was living, warmed in a different way by the incomparable vistas of olive trees, vineyards and cypress trees that stretched across the rolling hills outside of Siena.
Perhaps the biggest revelation Siena held for me was in those tiny shops, scattered along the winding streets in this stone city. Here I found a level of artiginato - craftsmanship - that I had never seen in the US; a fierce dedication to artisan production that seemed out of time in 1973: tailors, jewelers, bicycle makers, and countless others, honing their crafts daily, just as their fathers and mothers before them had done for centuries. This dedication to quality and detail extended to the Tuscan kitchen as well, where a whole new dimension of cooking opened up for me, particularly in the use of olive oil.
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This year, I returned to Siena and to San Casciano Val di Pesa, a Tuscan town steeped in olive oil tradition and innovation. I was there for a week-long technical course in early September, fortunate to hear talks and work with millers considered to be experts in their field. The course reiterated the complexity of what it takes to make a high-quality olive oil and how much thought and care goes into each bottle. Crafted by small, local producers who take pride in every detail of the process, these olive oils are alive - an expression of the land; a delicate balance of tradition and innovation that elevates olive oil making into an art.
In the local kitchens of the many small Tuscan villages and towns I visited, further south in the Chianti and even further in the Val d’Orcia outside Siena, beautifully crafted oils graced every table. Peppery oils paired perfectly with Tuscan menu staples, from toasted bruschetta to roasted meats, enhancing an array of dishes, no matter how simply prepared.
Tuscany is evolving, as all places do, with tourism bringing new energy to the cities and modern influences showing up on menus. But when you step into the heart of the countryside, with its gravel roads, old stone buildings and lush groves, the magic of the past is still very much alive. It’s in the olive oil, the food, and the artigianato — the craftsmanship — that continues to define this region.
Tuscan Flavors: Seasonal Recipes That Celebrate the Land
As I’ve mentioned so often in these posts, Italian cuisine is regional and rooted in the seasons. Here are two recipes that capture the essence of Tuscany, showcasing the best of what this region has to offer – and of course, no matter the season, olive oil is always the star.
Pappa al Pomodoro (Tomato & Bread Soup)
Pappa al Pomodoro isn’t just a dish; it’s a celebration of simplicity. Made with tomatoes, garlic, basil, and olio buono, this dish takes stale bread and turns it into something magical. It’s not a soup, not quite a stew. The tomatoes melt into the bread, and the olive oil ties everything together with its vibrant, grassy flavor. It’s proof that some of the most satisfying dishes are those made with a handful of the freshest ingredients. What makes pappa al pomodoro a flagbearer of Tuscan cooking is its chameleon-like nature: the recipe varies from area to area, from family to family, sparking debate and disagreement, as is always the case when typical Tuscan town rivalries are provoked.
photo: Giulia Scarpaleggia
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 45 minutes
Serves: 4
Ingredients
800 g ripe tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 dried chili pepper (optional)
1 glass extra virgin olive oil
4 thick slices stale tuscan or sourdough bread
1 cup hot water
20 fresh basil leaves
Fine sea salt
Instructions
Peel the tomatoes. Boil them for 30 seconds, then plunge into cold water. Peel and crush by hand.
Make the base. Warm half the olive oil in a pot. Add garlic and chili, cooking gently until fragrant. Stir in the tomatoes and simmer for about 20 minutes, until saucy.
Prepare the bread. Soak the slices in cold water until soft. Squeeze out excess water, then crumble into the tomato sauce. Add 1 cup of hot water.
Cook the soup. Season with salt and simmer for 10 minutes, whisking occasionally to create a creamy texture.
Finish. Stir in torn basil leaves and drizzle with the remaining olive oil.
Rest and serve. Let the soup sit for at least 1 hour so the flavors deepen. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Tagliata con Rucola e Parmigiano (Grilled Steak, Arugula & Parmesan)
This dish is Tuscany on a plate. Grilled steak, sliced thinly, and served over a bed of peppery arugula and shavings of Parmigiano. But the real star here is the drizzle of fresh olive oil. It’s not just a garnish - it’s what brings all the elements together, making the steak rich and juicy and the arugula pop with freshness. It’s the kind of dish you’d want to enjoy with a glass of Chianti and great conversation.
Prep Time: 10 minutes (plus resting time)
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 20 minutes
Serves: 2–3 per steak
Ingredients
1 thick-cut steak (ribeye, sirloin, or your favorite cut)
A few handfuls of fresh arugula
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for shaving
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper
Instructions
Prep the steak (optional but recommended). Salt the steak generously on both sides several hours—or up to a day—in advance. Place on a rack in the fridge, turning occasionally. Remove from the fridge about 1 hour before grilling to let it come to room temperature.
Grill. Heat the grill until very hot. Grill the steak over direct heat for 3–5 minutes per side, depending on thickness, until rare to medium-rare. Rest the steak for 10 minutes.
Prepare the platter. Spread the arugula on a serving plate. Shave Parmigiano-Reggiano into thin slices with a peeler.
Slice the steak. Cut the steak at an angle into thin strips. Arrange over the arugula.
Finish. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, add Parmigiano shavings, and drizzle generously with olive oil.
Serve. Enjoy immediately while the steak is still warm.
Notes:
Best cuts: Ribeye, sirloin, or strip steak work beautifully. Look for a steak at least 1 inch thick.
Pairing idea: A bold Tuscan red wine (like Chianti Classico) pairs perfectly with this dish.
Serving tip: Keep it rustic—slice the steak just before serving so it stays juicy and warm. Finish by drizzling a high-quality oil like Toscana - with its slight peppery finish, this Tuscan-style oil will add subtle flavor to fish, meats, and tender greens.
