Summertime in Italy: Al Fresco Pleasures & the Simple Magic of Pane Cunzato
“Summer is a state of mind, and blue is its favorite color.”
Perhaps it is my bias, but there is something unmistakably Italian about summer, especially here in California. Sun-drenched afternoons and meals that unfold al fresco when the kitchen moves outdoors, translate to dishes that are more simple but more vibrant, making the the delight of a shared, well- laid picnic table all the more relaxed and enjoyable.
Whether perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Mediterranean or on a sandy southern California beach – even on a blanket in your backyard or local park, the Italian picnic offers up a lesson in rustic elegance and pronounced flavors in dishes that can be prepared easily and enjoyed by all in summer.
Picnic-Perfect Dishes for a Summer in Italy
While there are countless staples in the Italian picnic repertoire, a standout is the classic Insalata di riso, Italy’s answer to the summer rice salad, a light and zesty favorite, studded with seasonal vegetables, capers, and oftentimes tuna. Frittata di zucchine is another offering that travels well and tastes even better at room temperature. But perhaps the most iconic picnic offering for me is pane cunzato, a Sicilian dish that distills the soul of the Mediterranean onto a single slice of bread. No culinary technique or creativity needed - only a handful of the best possible ingredients are necessary to make one of the most aromatic and tasty of all summer delights.
My most memorable encounter with pane cunzato or “dressed bread” goes back over thirty years ago. At the time, I was traveling with my young daughter along Sicily’s northern coast in late June, and the lunch hour was fast approaching. The heat in Sicily can be intense in summer, but this day was picture perfect – warm, with one of those dreamy sea breezes that make life too beautiful to be anywhere but outdoors.
Sicily’s captivating blue waters are the inspiration behind Luretik’s signature Sicily oil.
We stopped in the tiny fishing village of Scopello, (blink and you’ve passed it!), looking for a macellaria where we could buy picnic provisions. After passing through the orange and yellow beaded curtains into the tiny locale’s dark, cool interior, the butcher suggested pane cunzato, a specialty on that part of the island. To this day, I can trace at least a part of my epiphany about extra virgin olive oil to the first bite of that sandwich, made with the simplest, quality ingredients: slightly toasted bread, a generous amount of fruity, Sicilian olive oil, a generous sprinkling of sea salt and dried oregano, primo sale (a minimally aged sheep cheese), and fresh tomatoes. Anchovies, which this sandwich included, are optional but highly recommended! After her first bite, my daughter referred to this newfound delight as the magic sandwich, and indeed there was something magical about the explosion of aromas and flavors, so much so that pane cunzato has since remained a favorite on my summer menus.
Oregano & Olive Oil: A Classic Combination
Americans unfamiliar with the taste of real dried oregano, are often surprised by its aromatic intensity. Used liberally in southern Italian cooking, its flavor has little in common with the flat-tasting flakes or powder sold on supermarket shelves. And it is one of the few herbs that retains much of its original flavor in dried form. When paired with the touch of olive oil, it creates a seasoning that is earthy, floral, and utterly transportive.
In many southern Italian kitchens, dried oregano is not simply a pantry staple, but a memory of the hillsides where it grows and where its heady, slightly bitter fragrance permeates the air. In Sicily, it is foraged wild and hung in bunches to dry, but an excellent dried oregano can easily be had starting in your own backyard. All it takes is one or two oregano plants and a corner of the garden with space for the herb to grow and spread. When the low, compact plant begins to shoot upward and flower, the oregano is ready to be cut, tied in bunches and left for a day or two in the sun to partially dry. The drying process is then finished in the oven and the oregano ready for use.
Dried oregano bunches are a mediterranean staple. Photo credit: Sweet Greek, Kathy Tsaples
One of the simplest ways to celebrate the classic pairing of oregano and olive oil is the way it always appeared on our table at home. Fresh tomatoes - preferably warm from the garden - dressed with a generous sprinkling of crushed dried oregano and a fruity olive oil, like Luretík Sicily. Or simply use one of the dried bunches as a brush to baste grilled vegetables, roasted meats or warm flatbread with extra virgin olive oil for an instant depth of flavor that sings summer.
Traditional Pane Cunzato
Pane cunzato is bold, briny, sun-soaked, and best enjoyed with your hands, preferably while watching the waves or beneath a fig tree. Pane cunzato isn’t just a dish—it’s a love letter to the land, to olive oil, and to summer itself.
Photo credit: Chiara Ricci
Ingredients
1 rustic loaf cut into large slices (pane di casa or ciabatta)
Extra virgin olive oil (Luretík Sicily or the best you have!)
Ripe summer tomatoes, sliced
Anchovy fillets (optional but authentic)
Any mild or slightly aged cheese like pecorino primo sale or caciocavallo, sliced
Dried oregano
Sea salt
Fresh basil (optional)
Instructions
Toast or grill the bread slightly for a bit of crunch.
While warm, drizzle generously with olive oil until the bread softens slightly.
Sprinkle lightly with crushed, dried oregano.
Layer with sliced tomatoes, cheese, and anchovies.
Sprinkle with salt begin careful not to oversalt, especially if using anchovies.
Finish with another drizzle of olive oil.
